Clans and families of Cowal and buildings
associated with them
Many of the buildings associated with the clans, influential families and West of Scotland merchants who gave the area its present shape can be seen from the Cowalfest walks, and some can be visited on house tours during Cowalfest. See relevant sections of the programme for details.
The Cowalfest website contains detailed information on a number of walks in Cowal and the Arrochar area for those who want to visit outwith the festival. And of course the places mentioned below can be seen at any time of the year, although not all are open to the public.
The seat of the Chief of Clan Campbell, MacCailein Mor, is now Inveraray Castle, but numerous buildings in Cowal are associated with the Campbells.
Dunoon Castle, of which now only a rough outcrop of fragmentary foundations remain, dates from the 14th century when the Campbells of Argyll were made its hereditary keepers. From the 17th century they lived in Inveraray and Dunoon Castle became a ruin.
Driep Castle, near Strachur – a Campbell castle attacked in early 1646 by Sir James Lamont along with Kilmun, where the Lamonts are said to have taken the Provost's kinsmen from the tower and killed them, and Strachur, where he killed 33 men, women and children and destroyed homes, barns and cattle, on his return to Toward, an action for which the reprisal was the Toward massacre of the Lamonts.
Sir James was also accused of taking Archibald MacPhum of Driep from his house, stripping him of his clothing and leaving him to die in the frost and snow. There are old MacPhunn gravestones in Strachur churchyard.
Mary Queen of Scots is reputed to have stayed a night at Driep during her Cowal tour in 1563. Only a pile of stones now remain of the castle.
The Argyll Mausoleum at Kilmun Church on the shores of the Holy Loch. The Collegiate church was founded by Sir Duncan Campbell of Lochawe in 1442. Sir Duncan Campbell, the first Lord Campbell, was buried in the choir of the church in 1453, with many of the Earls of Argyll being buried in the choir and in a side chapel. In 1795-6 the chapel was pulled down and the mausoleum erected. This was used until recently as the Argyll family burial place with the last family member laid to rest here being the 10th Duke Niall Diarmid in 1949.
The mausoleum has suffered over the years from water ingress and moves are now underway to restore it. The churchyard contains many old gravestones.
During the summer months Kilmun Church provides teas and tours of the church and churchyard for visitors.
www.cowalshorechurches.org.uk
Kilmun Church is contemporary with Rosslyn Chapel, made famous by Dan Brown’s novel The Davinci Code.
www.rosslyntemplars.org.uk/kilmun.htm
Old Kilmun House, built by a member of the Campbell family in 1693. The house was owned at one time by the Younger family who owned Benmore and is now available as holiday accommodation.
www.oldkilmunhouse.com
Glendaruel House and watermill were designed for the Cripps family by the architect William Leiper around 1901 on the site of a former Campbell house. After becoming a hotel at the end of the war, Glendaruel House burned down in 1970. The main gate is said to have been built to resemble the Residency Gate at Lucknow, commemorating the Relief of the Siege of Lucknow which had been led by General Sir Colin Campbell.
A caravan park now occupies the site of Glendaruel House.
www.glendaruelcaravanpark.com
Ardgartan was the site of the home of the Campbells of Ardgartan, the house and its designed gardens being situated on a low-lying promontory which extends into Loch Long. Bought in 1936 for use as a youth hostel, the house was later demolished and replaced in the 1960s by a new concrete building which closed in 1998.
Forestry Commission Scotland have a visitor centre at Ardgartan from which walks and cycle rides in the surrounding area can be undertaken. Glenbranter, formerly the estate of entertainer Sir Harry Lauder, also has a visitor centre with walks and cycle rides around Loch Eck.
www.forestry.gov.uk/website/Recreation.nsf/LUWebDocsByKey/ScotlandArgyllandButeArgyllForestPark
Ormidale House was built as a seat of Clan Campbell in 1696, being substantially extended in 1900. It is now available to rent for holidays.
www.ormidalehouse.com
Strachur House and Estate, previously bought by Sir Fitzroy McLean of Dunconnel from Lady George Campbell, is now owned by his son Sir Charles Mclean. The Palladian style house was commissioned by General John Campbell in 1785 on his return from the American War of Independence. Strachur parish church has wonderful medieval carved stones.
www.strachur.org.uk/strachurhistory.html
www.strachurdistricthistory.edublogs.org
Also Strachur Smiddy - www.friedaweb.co.uk/strachursmiddy
Carrick Castle, dating from the 14th century, developed into a strategic base for the Campbells in maintaining control of the area and in the expansion of their influence, through to its role in the Argyll rebellions against the Crown. For Clan Campbell with their frequent contacts with the burghs across the Clyde estuary and their houses in Perth, Stirling and Edinburgh good communications were essential to their continuing survival and prosperity. Mary Queen of Scots stayed at Carrick Castle, arriving on 19th July 1563 after dining at Dumbarton, staying until 21st as the guest of Archibald Campbell, 5th Earl of Argyll and a Royal Lieutenant.
Today, after partial restoration, Carrick Castle is a private home.
Knockamillie Castle, Innellan, a ruined Campbell stronghold.
Southall
The Campbell of Southall were forced to sell the estate in 1913. The planting in the grounds was supposedly in the form of the disposition of soldiers at the battle of Waterloo.
Ardtaraig, Ballochyle, Dergachy and Drimsynie – all properties belonging to prominent Campbells, the latter house now being central to a holiday development in Lochgoil.
www.ardtaraig.net
www.argyllholidays.com/d_drimdetails.html
Campbell Burial Enclosure, Cnoc Mhic Eoghainn
The 'Cnoc Mhic Eoghain' (Macewan) fort is just west of Ballimore House and 30 yards from the shore. Its flat top holds a stone enclosure used as the burying place of the Campbells of Otter. See also MacEwan’s Castle, Kilfinan
The Paper Caves on Lock Eck side were the hiding place of the Campbell estate papers during the rout of Argyll in 1685 - www.cavedatabase.co.uk/showacave.asp?id=2984.
Benmore Outdoor Centre undertakes a walk to the Paper Caves during Cowalfest.
www.benmorecentre.co.uk
The Campbell Revolutions and the Paper Caves
Archibald Campbell 8th Earl of Argyll and the first and only Marquis of Argyll 1607 -1661 was tried and executed in 1661 for his part in the civil war. Despite seeking reconciliation on the restoration and crowning Charles II in Edinburgh he was tried for his part in the civil war and beheaded in Edinburgh on 27th May 1661. His son, Lord Lorne, took the royalist cause but efforts on behalf of his father brought him into conflict with the Scots Parliament and he was imprisoned and sentenced to death but then pardoned by Charles II. Released in 1663, the Argyll estates and the earldom were restored to him but the Argyll fortunes were to be set on a further violent path.
He refused to sign the Test Act and was condemned to death in 1681, but escaped prison in Edinburgh disguised as his stepdaughter's maid, fleeing to Holland. He was the mastermind behind the rising of 1685 to restore the Protestant faith. Argyll invaded Scotland and The Duke of Monmounth rose in England. It ended badly and Argyll fled through Cowal pursued by Atholl's men. He was captured at Renfrew and taken to Edinburgh. He was not tried but executed under the previous death sentence he had escaped from. This expediency did little for the reputation of Scots justice of the time. His speech on the scaffold is remembered for its dignity and invokes the turbulence of the times.
"No Tragic Story" are the Earl's evocative words and the title of a book on the 9th Earl by Raymond Campbell Paterson (published by Birlinn).
Argyll's tradition enemies now could only believe that the rise and fortunes of the Argyll family had surely come to an abrupt halt yet the 9th Earl's son was to have lands and title restored and was made the first Duke of Argyll.
The bodies of the Marquis and the 9th Earl are interred in the family mausoleum at Kilmun. After a suitable period of being a grisly warning on spikes at Edinburgh Tolbooth their heads were brought to Kilmun and reunited with their bodies.
The Paper Caves are associated with this period where the estate papers and titles were hidden to keep them safe till better times and fortunes.
Strathlachlan has been the home of Maclachlan Chiefs for approaching a thousand years The ruins of Castle Lachlan stand not far distant from the new castle, home to Euan Maclachlan of Maclachlan, the 25th clan chief. The old castle was bombarded from the sea in 1746 by an English warship after the defeat of the Jacobites at the Battle of Culloden, the Maclachlans participating in the unsuccessful rebellion with their chief Lachlan Maclachlan, who was killed in the battle, ADC to Bonnie Prince Charlie.
The new castle was built in Queen Anne style at the end of the eighteenth century. A century later it was transformed into Scottish baronial style. The castle is available for holidays, weddings and other special occasions.
www.castlelachlan.com
The Clan Maclachlan Society's genealogist holds over 20,000 family history records of MacLachlans and their relatives. Gilchrists and MacEwens are septs of Clan Maclachlan.
www.drumcot.org
MacEwan
MacEwan’s Castle, Kilfinan, Caisteal Cnoc Mhic Eoghainn
On the north side of Kilfinan Bay is MacEwan's Castle. In the early 13th century, Eoghan Na H-Oitrich (Ewan of Otter)) gave his name to the Clan and so the Clan MacEwan was born, living in MacEwan's Castle, near Kilfinan Church on the coast of Loch Fyne. In 1432 Swene McEwan 9th and last of Otter granted the lands of Otter to Duncan Campbell and resigned the Barony of Otter to James 1st. James 5th confirmed the Barony of Otter to Colin Earl of Argyll in 1513 and thereafter it remained in the hands of the Campbells with a 1602 Act of Parliament listing the MacEwans as subjects and the responsibility of the Earl of Argyll.
A cairn now stands on the site, erected by the MacEwan clan in 1990.
www.maroan.co.uk
Kilfinan Hotel nestles in the ancestral lands of the Lamont, Lachlan and McEwan clans, adjacent to the ancient Church of Kilfinan. It has been welcoming travellers for over 300 years, and offers an especially warm welcome to members of the McEwan (or Ewan) clan (and their friends!) who are invited to sign their special "Clan Ewan" guest book which includes entries from McEwans and Ewans from all over the world.
www.kilfinan.com
Some names that are septs of or linked to the Lamont Clan – Aldownie, Black, Blaik, Broun, Clement, Douglas, Lamb, Lammon, Lamont, Lemmon, Luck, MacAldowie, MacClements, MacEaracher, MacGilliegowie, MacIlwham, MacLammie, MacLucas, MacLusa, MacSorley, Meickleam, Munn, Paterson, Toward, Young.
Toward Castle –the ruins of the 15th century Lamont stronghold of Toward Castle lie within the grounds of Castle Toward. Visited by Mary Queen of Scots in 1563 where she spent one night as the guest of Sir John Lamont of Inveryne.
In 1646 the Campbells laid siege to the castle, and after trying to blow it up, offered safe passage as far as Dunoon to those sheltering within. However on leaving the Lamonts were rounded up and 36 clansmen were hung.
Ascog Castle – this 15th century castle, on the shores of Ascog Loch on the road between Kilfinan and Tighnabruaich, was the ancestral home of the McInnes Lamonts, who were required to provide an escort for the chief's galleys when they sailed forth from Cowal. Ascog was destroyed by the Campbells of Ormasary during the 1646 massacre. Over 100 clansmen were taken to Dunoon, where some were hanged and others buried alive.
Kilfinan Church – located on the western side of Cowal, near the shores of Loch Fyne. Kilfinan Church was given by Sir Laumon, first Chief of Clan Lamont, and his uncle Duncan, to the monks of Paisley in a charter signed in 1235. Many of the early chiefs, including Sir Laumon's son Malcolm, are buried here.
www.drumcot.org
Knockdow House - Seat of the McGorrie Lamonts of Knockdow, the house is located on a 6,000 acre estate, southeast of Dunoon. Originally built by the Campbells around 1750, Knockdow Estate was bought in 1810 by the Lamonts who over the years considerably extended the house, with interiors rich in exotic hardwoods from their estates in Trinidad.
The estate was sold in 1990 with most of its contents pertaining to Clan Lamont bequeathed to the Clan Lamont Society.
Ardlamont House - Ardlamont House became the ancestral home of the Lamont Clan following the 1646 massacre at Toward Castle. In 1893 the Estate became nationally infamous for a murder which was one of the first events covered by budding reporter and author Neil Munro.
During the 1939-45 war the estate was used to train 3,000 troops for their part in the Normandy Landings on D-Day. Now one of the Little Ships involved in the Dunkirk evacuations is part of the Ardlamont experience.
Ardlamont Estate is only 80 miles from Glasgow at Ardlamont Point in the south of the Cowal Peninsula. Today this historic mansion with sumptuous public rooms, and elegant four-postered bedrooms is regularly let to house parties.
www.ardlamontestates.co.uk
Inveryne - the Lamont family are thought to have ruled in Cowal in the Norse period around 800 – 1150 with their main lands around Kilfinan, which made them known as the Lamonts of Inveryne, and at Toward. The Barony of Inveryne was created by a crown charter in 1472 confirming John Lawmond and his male heirs in the title. Today only some mounds of grass remain to point to where some buildings may have once stood.
Inverchaolain Manse - on the shores of Loch Striven stands the Old Manse built in 1730 The Society is currently working on restoring the interior of the manse, where a Lamont Museum is housed. The church is the fourth on the site and dates from 1912.
The Lamont Memorial at Dunoon was erected in 1906 by the Clan Lamont Society to commemorate the 1646 massacre of 200 Lamonts by Clan Campbell. The memorial was placed near the spot where so many met their deaths, at Tom-a-Mhoid (Hill of Justice), on the A815 beside MacColl's Hotel.
In 1473 Colin Campbell, 1st Earl of Argyll, granted to Gilbert MacNaughton a charter of the lands of Dunderave with its castle sited on a rocky promontory jutting out into Loch Fyne just north of Inveraray built in 1598 becoming the chief seat of the clan Macnachtan. After the battle of Killiecrankie, MacNaughton lands were forfeited and in 1695 were sold to Archibald Campbell, 10th Earl and 1st Duke of Argyll who granted a charter of these lands to Sir James Campbell of Ardkinglas. Campbell divided the lands with Ardkinglas getting Dunderave and the land between it and Ardkinglas on the opposite shore of Loch Fyne.
In 1911/12 Dunderave was restored for Lilias, Andrew & Margery’s eldest daughter, by the Scottish architect Robert Lorimer who had built Ardkinglas House for Sir Andrew Noble after his purchase of Ardkinglas Estate. Dunderave castle was part of the Ardkinglas estate at that time, but in 1919 it was bought by Lord Weir of the Glasgow engineering company G & J Weir. The castle is still privately owned.
Dunderave was used by writer Neil Munro as the basis for the Doom Castle of one of his novels.
